- Material: Synthetic
- Brand: HOSA
- Liquid Volume: 142 Milliliters
- Item Weight: 8 Ounces
- Recommended Uses For Product: Lubricant
- Safe For Use On All Metal Connectors And Contacts
- The Package Dimensions of the product is 4″H x 10″L x 2″W
- Country of Origin: United States














Jon – Life from my wheelchair. –
Used on an old school vintage clock radio. The volume control made a horrid sound when used. Making the radio useless.We all know the situation. We go to turn on our favorite radio and one day SCRATCH, CRRRRRRUUUUNNNCHHHHH, STTTTTAAAAAATTTTTIC..And, your heart sank. Knowing your old trusted friend has seen better days. Or has he?All you need do is have or gain access to the rotary mechanism inside your electronic friend, and no need to even take it apart or remove it. Just need to get behind the cover.Find the knob or slider and see where it comes together. The board material, and the metal or plastic housing for the rotary or slider?Unplug the electronic device. This stuff is very flammable.That is all you need access to. Dust off any dust in the area if any first.Have some paper towel or rags handy to help clean up. It won’t be much.When using the straw make sure it is at a right angle or sticking out straight.I used a pair of pliers to make the end of the straw oval and thinner to fit into the crossfader fader slots.You do not need to spray a lot. A solid press then stop. You only need a few drops to get into the mechanics.Then rotate or slide the item being cleaning back and forth for a minute.Then if the rotary or slider started all the way to one side. Move it to the other now.Spray again. Just as before a few drops. This is water thin material in the can. And, a small amount goes and goes a long ways.Repeat the moving of the dial or slider. Doing this for a minute or two.Imagine your car is dirty, you take it to a car wash. You are in effect doing the same now for your electronic devices.And, the lube is built into this, so it is like the wax on the finish to keep it clean longer.This can be used on any rotary or slider styled electronic control.It is best to take apart the actual electronic item to get you closer to the mechanics behind the scene that are in need of help.Always unplug your device, remove batteries and such as this is a very flammable liquid.Do not use WD40. Because you are only cleaning the mechanics a little. Then leaving them raw and exposed. If your electronics get water in them then use WD40 because it is a water displacement spray. Not a lube or oil.Value for the money: My one repair tonight paid for this can and more.My new Mini Innofader Plus came 100% ready to use as is. After using this on it the movement improved 100% more.If you own anything electronic with rotary or slider controls, then do yourself a huge favor and get a can of this. Become your neighborhood electronic hero with this. Or, just to save yourself a fortune in repairs or worse replacements.How I discovered this product – The InnoFader I bought years ago had a tiny cute tube of DeOxIt redish color in it, I honestly didn’t even notice it until my first InnoFader was having issues. I cleaned the years of dust and such out of it. Still goofing up.Went online and read about DeOxIt and wished I had some. Out of frustration I pulled out the InnoFader box, it is very small so I kept it with my DDJ SX2 original crossfader in it, and that was when I noticed that cute tiny tube of DeOxIt. I used 3 drops and the 99% of the issues solved.The movement felt like a hot knife through melted butter. Smooth!I had unfortunately handled the InnoFader in a manner that caused it to eventually skip or jump around as it went to the left or right 100%.As it would close or turn the sound to the left or right off. It would occasionally jump towards the middle open.I did check curve settings and made sure I was not in CUT mode. The curve setting dial was half way.Mechanically I must have pulled the lever towards me, causing the carriage to fail partially.
rw24 –
this goo is absolutely ESSENTIAL for electronics. have used the stuff for years (as well as it’s compatriot w/ the red label) & it never disappoints. bought it originally for use w/ guitar components but have found myriad other applications where it’s proven to be a fabulous concoction. would HIGHLY recommend for electronic ‘dials’ & such of any sort or kind; i use it on all guitars & amps, my motorcycle, stereo equipment, tools of all varieties, & basically anything else that incorporates electronics w/ moving parts n’ pieces. the stuff just works – pricey, but worth the money (IMHO). have had more than a few situations where a squirt of this goo has fixed a ‘bug’ or an issue almost instantaneously. my only ‘beef’ (if any) is the fact that it’s a little tricky to control the volume of product being expelled from the nozzle as sometimes, it blasts out a bit too much of the goo & it gets a little messy (always keep a rag handy when using this product). the complimentary “DeoxIT” products are also quite phenomenal depending upon your specific needs/ application(s). i recommend these products universally (CAIG) & find them nonpareil having tried similar such goo’s in the past. none can compare to the “DeoxIT” line-up. cheers!
A. Garner –
This stuff worked miracles on my MIDI fader device. The faders were acting erratic so I was about to send it to the manufacturer for a costly repair. They suggested spraying the faders with DetoxIT as a first step. That did the trick – everything works great now. This product saved me the hassle and possibly a big repair bill.
Scott MacLean –
I’ve always used quality contact cleaners to try to clean pots and faders, and they work well, but this stuff is fantastic. Not only does it remove the static, it leaves behind a lubricating film that makes old pots and sliders work more smoothly.However…I learned the hard way: if you have any switches that use silicone rubber and conductive carbon contacts – for instance, synthesizer keyboard contacts, computer keyswitches, or tactile switches which utilize silicone rubber internals, this contact cleaner will DISSOLVE the silicone rubber, and they will disintegrate. Don’t let it anywhere near them!
Dillon K. –
This is as close to a god send as I have ever seen. I decided to start repairing a 1970s cabinet stereo. Every pot was scratchy and impossible to find replacements for. I did a bit of research on what product would be best for my application and settled on this as it is a cleaner and grease. I was pretty reluctant on buying this due to the price but even if I need to take it apart and clean them every few years, that’s a cheap price to pay for something that can’t really be repaired anyway else.
DJBabyBuster –
This product works miracles, it resurrected my 1978 Technical SA-500 amplifier which was having serious right/left channel cutoffs on the volume knob. I had previously used D5 to some success on the volume potentiometer, but that product should only be used for static switches. Use the red D5 on all switches, and this product F5 on all moving potentiometer knobs, as it has lubricant in addition to a lower concentration of deoxidizing solution.Make sure you open up unit for access, then spray F5 directly on all potentiometers with the straw, then spin each back and forth completely many times.Lubricating the potentiometers does give them a slightly looser feel adjusting, but nothing detrimental for the vast audio improvements.All channel cutoffs and static when adjusting has been eliminated, and amazingly on the high volume end, my amp now goes much louder. This is already an overpowered 500W amp, but I was amazed that max volume has seemingly doubled.
James T –
Used this on two synthesizers that were around 10 and 15 years old. Took care of the potentiometers even through the front panel. also pushed all the gunk up off of the shafts so I could wipe it away.
Kevin Bouk –
When it comes to contact cleaner, he just can’t beat it …