VHT SP731 Real Red Caliper Paint has been specifically designed for brake, drum, caliper, and rotor custom detailing. It is heat resistant to 900 degrees Fahrenheit and will not chip, peel, crack, fade or rust even under extremes of operation or road and weather conditions. VHT caliper paint is easy to apply, dries quickly and is remarkably resistant. Careful preparation is essential to insure proper adhesion and curing.VHT caliper paint is part of a multi high performance coating system. The coating system products consist of primer, paint, and clear coat. VHT caliper paint dries to the touch in 30 minutes and completely over night. VHT caliper paint only attains its unique qualities after correct curing. Curing occurs with normal brake operating temperatures or parts can be heated to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Complete application and curing process instructions are also printed on each can.
- Paint has been specifically designed for brake, drum, caliper and rotor custom detailing
- Superior heat and chemical resistance
- Best when used with primer color paint and clear coat process
- Withstands temperatures up to 900 degrees when cured properly
- This item is not for sale in Catalina Island








































Dan –
This review is for the Gloss Clear (wish amazon would state this automatically for these multi item vendor pages). Edit: Apparently I have only one option of one review since they were from the same page. Seriously amazon, fix this for your consumers!One star dropped because no where on the clear can does it say clear. If you lose your cap then you have to test it if you also bought other VHT spray paints and have them capless nearby.The clear scared me more than I ever want to be scared again. Brand new 3k brake package and go to put a clear coat on and I got a milky look on a relatively light coat. I was tempted to grab my brake cleaner and scrub the days work I had on them. I’m glad I waited. At first I was letting them air dry. I need to wait for spacers so due to that there’s no rush. I then did a test (1st pic). I sprayed one pad clip which gets milky easily. The paint under that is a dark orange (not the gold in the other two pics). I put it on a towel on the dashboard of my truck and let the sun bake it for a few minutes. I live in southwest FL so it was baked quick. The glaze was great and the milky look was gone.Some things don’t get a good gloss layer, even with many heavy coats. Pics one and two are shinier than they appear. Gold really has a hard time showing that in pictures. The gold however took 5 – 7 coats before I was barely happy with the results. The VHT Red is more glossy as is without clear than the Gold is with my end result.My process was much more than most have stated, but due to trying to get the best and be sure it was cured.1st I primed two coats.2nd I painted 4 coats. 1st light and others thereafter were medium and heavy with no runs.3rd I was going to wait it out, so they sat for four days.4th My decals came in (I used an Infiniti set, akebono set for the a and underline, and a custom set I ordered online). I’m a ham and it’s my hard work and paycheck so decided to get some laughs.5th I sprayed 5 – 7 coats of this clear. After each coat I put them on a towel in my truck and sun baked them. They got almost too hot to handle and I have very calloused hands.6th After work I took them home and baked them at 200° for 1 hour.7th I smiled and am writing this review as they lay next to me so I can appreciate the tender loving care I put into this!The 4th pic is the gold without the clear. The room I’m in is incredible hot and humid. I had to buy a 3rd can because the end of the first started spraying what seemed like sand and was MUCH darker than the rest. 2nd can did the same only half way through. I then researched it and it was actually said to be something that happens in very low humidity so I did the 3rd outside in the shade with no issue. My own learning experience so won’t knock off stars for my conditions during the painting. You can see the slight grittyness under the last two coats. At this point having stripped them from a past color change and being near the end of my third can I was happy to move forward.Best of luck with your project. Hope this helps.
Snowblind –
It isn’t really Orange, but rather a Firetruck-Red. That’s why I took one Star off.
kevin a –
great product and simple to use.
monty –
After reading the pros and cons of brush versus spray painting, I bought 2 cans of VHT SP 71 high temperature red brake caliper paint for my 2022 Tesla Model Y. Also purchased a can of Rust-Oleum high temperature gray primer and a can of VHT clear gloss paint. My 3 star rating is based on the extreme difficulty of pressing the red caliper paint nozzle button while trying to paint the sides of the calipers and the excessively long paint drying time. I prepped and painted one side of the car within a 7 hour window in 55 degree dry weather using a high heat drying lamp on the front calipers in excess of 3 hours. Read no more unless you are attempting to do the same.The face of the 2022 Model Y front calipers are machined polished unlike their cast sides and all rear calipers are only cast. I wire brushed the front caliper faces first. After cleaning with brake cleaner, detergent and alcohol water mix I engaged in the time intensive masking fun and over spray protection which required 90 percent of my/your time. Initially, I primed the entirety of the calipers. Minimal pressure on the nozzle button required with primer. I used 2 light passes of red in 10 minute intervals followed by a heavy final coat. A nice glossy surface results. To cover the caliper sides and bottoms you need to get your head into the wheel well where the button nozzle force is a real issue. The surface of the paint dries quickly but I applied the heat lamp as noted. While mounting the tires (good time to rotate) I scuffed one of the front calipers removing some of the paint. I also noticed a paint run I wasn’t happy with so I scraped the face with a razor blade and used acetone to remove the residual, brushed the face, cleaned and masked etc. Instead of priming I sprayed the red paint on the face and noticed what resembled fish eyes exposing bare metal which required scraping off and priming. I concluded priming the caliper faces is essential. It’s been a week of driving and I will soon put on a Tesla decal covered with gloss and hope the decal doesn’t pull off any paint. If it does, a 1 star rating and back to the drawing board.